Arriving at Trossen feels like finally discovering an island where one can rest, after swimming in the rough sea of german conventional wine — which is too often the norm in Mosel. Here is a safe space for nature, a place of peace and quiet, where observation is the secret code. One can almost forget the rough sound of the spraying planes nearby — working for people who practice what is misinterpreted as « viticulture ».
Rudi & Rita Trossen
Meeting Trossen makes you wonder whether his cold stare has the power to unveil the good or the bad within you — and knowing that he picked up both at a glance. He seems to be able to read the energies and souls form each and everyone of us, when his face is dimly lit by the cellar light, and he his silently presiding behind the table covered with empty bottles that have been drunk by the numerous guests. He is listening to the cacophony of our conversations, which are partly covered by the loud rumbling of the press which has the same age that he does. The way of operationg this machine of a venerable age is dictating the rhythm of the chilly harvest nights: 20 minutes of pressing, then passing a bottle around, 20 minutes of pressing, and so on and so forth.
Diving head first in the Trossen universe means paying attention to the speech of the man, who seems to be half-philosopher, half-enigma, half-genius. A man so complex he has three halves. When he speaks, everybody listens. And when Rita speaks, even more so. When both of them show up for break fresh like a summer mist, one wonders whether they also have been drinking biodynamic potions since 1978.
Walking in Trossen’s vines is going up and down soft hills rolling down to the river, covered with vines extending their grateful arms to the sky, heavy with the bunch of golden grapes ready to be harvested. It’s also a powerful lesson in sustainable farming, the real kind, just by looking at the neighbors vines where the soil is splitting open because of the damages of erosion. Et we keep on listening to Rudi who is explaining the winding to road that led him to quetsion his own practices three decades before everybody else. He was only a young man then, who had inherited the estate from his father sadly gone too soon. When he talks about the other famous Rudolph — Steiner, the founding father of biodynamic agriculture — it feels obvious that he has not only read his work, but understood, interpreted, and made it his too.
And finally, when we drink the wines from Rudi and Rita Trossen, there or anywhere, the answers generally drip out of the bottles. They contain a part of the mystique of their maker, the smooth verve, the half-smile of those who know when the rain will come. The wines, other than being delicious, bear a tranquil force, a soothing energy, just like the one and only Rudi Trossen.